A classic motorcycle is simple enough that one careful hour tells you most of what you need to know. This checklist is the order we would follow. Print it, or keep it on your phone, and do not skip a step because the seller seems friendly. For a shorter, editorial version, see the blog post the collector's checklist.
Before you go: the questions
- Is the seller the registered owner? Ask for a photo of the registration document and the seller's ID, and compare the names.
- How long have they owned it, and what is the history before that? A bike with a story of ten owners and no receipts is a bike with unknowns.
- What has been done, by whom, and is there paperwork? Receipts for an engine rebuild are worth more than the word "restored".
- Does it start from cold, and when did it last run? Ask for the first start of the day to be a cold one, and ask the seller not to warm it up before you arrive.
- What are the known faults? Every classic has some. A seller who says "nothing" is either inexperienced or hiding something.
The papers and the numbers
Match the frame number and the engine number on the bike with the papers. Read frame and engine numbers and matching numbers and papers and proof of ownership first. A stamp that looks re-struck, a number that is different from the document, or a plate that has been replaced are all reasons to stop.
Standing next to the bike
- Stance. Look at the bike from the front and the back. A leaning front end, a bent handlebar or a wheel that is not in line suggests a fall.
- Frame. Look for fresh weld seams, filler, different paint on one tube, and cracks near the steering head and the engine mounts.
- Forks. Check the sliding tubes for pitting and rust, which destroys the seals. Push down on the front and see whether it rebounds smoothly.
- Steering head. Lift the front wheel if you can, or hold the front brake and rock the bike. Any knock means worn bearings. Turn the bars from lock to lock: notchy movement is a worn bearing too.
- Swingarm. Hold the rear wheel and try to move it sideways. Play points to worn bushes or bearings.
- Wheels. Spin them and look for wobble. On spoked wheels, look for loose or broken spokes. On alloy wheels, look for cracks and corrosion.
Tyres
Tyres carry a four-digit date code after "DOT": the first two digits are the week and the last two the year, so 2418 means the 24th week of 2018. Tyres that look new can be hard and old. Many tyre manufacturers advise replacing tyres that are around ten years old whatever the tread, so budget for a new set if the date is old. Check brakes, tyres and ageing rubber.
The engine
- Cold start. This is the best test you will ever have. A bike that starts easily on the first or second kick or press, idles, and does not smoke much after a minute is in good shape.
- Smoke. Blue smoke means oil is being burned. White smoke that does not go away after warming up can mean coolant or a leaking head gasket. Black smoke means the mixture is too rich.
- Noise. Listen for rattles from the top end, knocks from the bottom end, and whining from the primary drive. A little mechanical noise is normal on old engines, but a deep knock is not.
- Leaks. A damp film of oil is common on old engines. Dripping is not. Look at the head gasket, the base gasket, the primary cover and the final drive.
- Clutch and gearbox. The clutch should release cleanly and not slip when you pull away. All gears should engage without crunching and the bike should find neutral.
- Compression. If possible, ask for a compression test or a leak-down test. It is cheap and decisive.
Fuel system
Look inside the tank with a torch. A bit of dust is fine. Rust flakes and a flaking sealant coat are not. Check the fuel tap for leaks, and the carburettors for crusty deposits. Old fuel can ruin carburettors, see what ethanol gasoline does to a classic fuel system.
Brakes
On drum brakes, the lever or pedal should have a clear point where the brake bites. On discs, look at the pads, the disc thickness and the hoses. Rubber brake hoses perish with age, and a hose with cracks on the outside is a safety issue. The brake fluid should be clear and not dark brown.
Electrics
Check the lights, indicators, horn and brake light. Look at the loom: brittle insulation, scotch-lock connectors and household wire joints mean a previous owner worked on it without care. Ask for the charging output at the battery with the engine running. See electrics, 6 volt, 12 volt and ignition.
Paint, chrome and finish
Original paint with age and a patina is not a fault, it is often a selling point. Look for overspray on rubber parts, paint runs, and mismatched colours between tank and side panels. Pitted chrome is expensive to redo. See originality and patina.
The test ride
If the seller allows a ride, check that the bike tracks straight with no hands on the bars at a safe moment, that the brakes pull evenly, that the engine pulls cleanly through the rev range and that nothing vibrates badly. If you cannot ride it, ask for a video of the bike being started and ridden.
When to walk away
- The seller cannot show papers that match the bike.
- The numbers do not match, and there is no good explanation.
- You are asked to pay outside a safe channel. Read safe payment.
- You are rushed. A good classic will still be a good classic tomorrow.
Do you need a specialist?
If the bike is expensive, far away or complicated, hire an inspector: see the pre-purchase inspection.
