A classic car is a bigger and more complicated purchase than a motorcycle, and the cost of getting it wrong is higher. The same rule applies: one careful hour tells you most of what you need to know. This checklist follows the order that saves the most money.
Papers and numbers first
- Check the chassis number on the plate and on the body against the registration. Look for signs of re-stamping or a replaced plate. See frame and engine numbers for the principles.
- Ask for the date of first registration in writing, since it decides APK, tax and plates: classic car rules in the Netherlands.
- Check the seller against the papers and see papers and proof of ownership.
- Ask for the history file: invoices, old inspection reports, photographs of any restoration.
Body and rust
This is where most of the money is. Read rust and bodywork in classic cars for the detail. In short, check:
- sills and the lower ends of the doors and wings,
- floor pans, boot floor and the spare wheel well,
- wheel arches, inner wings and the areas around the suspension mounts,
- the scuttle, windscreen surround and roof edges,
- panel gaps and paint: uneven gaps, ripples and mismatched colours suggest accident repair.
The underside
Look at the car on a ramp or lift if you can. Check the chassis rails or the sub-frames for rust, welds and filler, the exhaust, the brake lines and fuel lines, and the suspension mounting points. Fresh underseal on a car that is otherwise old can hide a problem.
The engine and gearbox
- Cold start: easy starting, steady idle and no heavy smoke after a minute.
- Oil and coolant: milky oil or oil in the coolant point to a head gasket. Check the level and the colour.
- Leaks: a film of oil is normal on old engines, drips are not.
- Gearbox and clutch: smooth engagement, no crunching, no slipping.
- Noise: listen for knocks, rattles and whines at idle and under load.
Brakes, suspension and steering
- The pedal should be firm. A spongy or sinking pedal needs attention. See brakes, tyres and ageing rubber.
- Look for leaking wheel cylinders, perished flexible hoses and corroded brake lines.
- Check steering play, bushes and shock absorbers.
- Tyres: date code and condition. See the same article.
Electrics and interior
- Lights, indicators, wipers, heater and gauges.
- Wiring condition, and signs of earlier repair.
- Seats, carpets, headlining and dashboard. Interior parts can be harder to find than mechanical parts. See electrics for the principles.
- Damp smells and wet carpets point to leaks and rust beneath.
The test drive
Drive on a variety of roads. The car should track straight, brake evenly, change gear cleanly and not overheat. Listen for noises from the suspension and the axle. If the seller does not allow a test drive, treat that as a warning.
When to get an expert
For anything costly or far away, have a marque specialist look at it: the pre-purchase inspection. Pay safely: safe payment.
